Types of Leather and How We Use Them in Our Barefoot Shoes

At Zeazoo, we believe comfort starts with reconnecting to nature. That’s why we choose materials that not only look beautiful, but are breathable, flexible, skin-safe, and durable over time.

Leather is one of the oldest and best materials known to humankind. It provides durability, comfort, and a natural fit to the shape of the foot, especially important for barefoot shoes, whose primary goal is to deliver a barefoot sensation.

At Zeazoo we use predominantly natural leather, only of European origin that comply with the REACH regulation for safety and environmental standards.

The natural leather is a by-product of the meat industry i.e., a waste material that is repurposed rather than discarded.

We do not use materials from animals raised specifically for their skins, nor from exotic species.

We understand that some of you prefer not to use animal-derived materials. Still, we’d like to explain where and why we use natural leather, its advantages, and what to expect from this natural product (a by-product of the food industry). 

Below we take a closer look at the types of leather we use in Zeazoo models and the qualities each brings, We also offer some vegan alternatives.

A. Leather by origin

We use cowhide, pigskin, goat, sheepskin (shearling) and wool, chosen for their strength, structure, and specific benefits.

1. Cowhide (calf/cattle) - Nappa, Suede, Nubuck, Lining

Widely used for shoes, belts, bags, and furniture due to its large surface area, thickness, and strength.

A single hide can reach up to ~6 m² with a thickness of up to ~6 mm, depending on the animal’s size and age.

Cowhide is the most robust and commonly used full-grain/upper leather and is usually split into two layers:

- The outer grain layer becomes nappa or nubuck - with an even, porous structure, very strong and elastic, but difficult to process and with waste, due to the "imperfections" that must be avoided - from wounds, scratches, insect bites, etc.

- The inner part is used for suede or shagreen - it has a looser structure and wider pores. It is а cheaper product compared to the top grain due to easier processing and the lack of imperfections on the surface of the skin. Waste from this skin are the vein marks that must be avoided when using it.

When processed for shagreen/embossed split (with a deep uneven surface - often used for bags and upholstery) it is sealed on one side with a PVC coating and a deep pattern, water repellency, high wear resistance and easy maintenance are achieved. This is the lowest-priced leather in which the imperfections are camouflaged.

The strongest and most uniform part of the calfskin, and of all the others, is in the middle - on the back of the animal. This part is the most inextensible and is usually used in belts and parts of shoes where less stretch and greater strength and abrasion resistance are required.

At Zeazoo, cowhide is widely used as upper leather; in some models we also use calf lining, which is luxurious and costly but the most durable option.

2. Pigskin - Lining

Typically used as lining; like cowhide, it can be split into two so the lining can be smooth (fodra) or suede-like (split). 

It has larger, more visible pores than cowhide (due to coarser hair follicles) and generally smaller surface and thickness (about 0.7–1 m² and 2–3 mm).

Rarely used for uppers in higher-end products.

We use chrome-free pigskin lining in our shoes.

3. Goat (morocco)

Morocco is among the most luxurious and soft materials for elegant jackets and women’s shoes thanks to its sheen, elasticity, softness, and rich color depth. More durable than pigskin, less than cowhide.

Its thickness and area are similar to pigskin; when split into suede, it has a velvety look and touch.

We use it in some models, printed suedes - the suede is covered with interesting print.

4. Sheepskin (shearling)

Hair-on sheepskin (shearling) is the dermis with the fleece left on. The thickness of the dermis is about 0.8mm, and the hair is usually trimmed to 1 cm.

It’s used in garments, hats, gloves, shoes, rugs, and upholstery for its air circulation, warmth retention, and moisture management. The wool hair is largely used as a fiber on its own - fleece, boiled wool, textile, etc.

For slippers and winter styles, we use sheepskin or lambskin (smaller and smoother), also in a wool fleece with a high content of virgin wool and recycled wool. We also use it as lining in the Yeti model.

Sheepskin is a unique material combining the benefits of both wool and leather - breathable, warm, antibacterial, and durable.

It naturally regulates temperature: keeps feet warm without overheating. This material is ideal for barefoot shoes because it maintains the foot’s microclimate without synthetic insulation. Your favorite Dingo model is made from sheepskin preserved in its original form, a single piece of skin with the animal’s hair.

B. Leather by Finish

1. Nappa - Natural Strength & Elegance

Used as face (grain) leather, i.e., the top layer of the dermis that protects the animal from the environment. It is highly durable, resilient, and breathable.

Its surface is smooth and even with a light natural grain (matching the skin’s natural creases). In smaller animals the structure is slightly more pebbled and soft.

Nappa shoes conform naturally to the foot, soften with wear, and develop a patina - a gentle sheen and texture that make them even more beautiful.

Ideal for models meant for frequent wear and long life e.g., autumn/winter shoes, or slippers made solely of upper leather without lining.

At Zeazoo we also use chrome-free nappa (more below), processed without chromium, formaldehyde, or other EU-restricted substances - skin-safe and eco-friendlier, without losing strength or softness. Perfect for children’s delicate skin and people with sensitive skin.

2. Nubuck - Softness & Endurance

Nubuck is a face leather where the outer surface is lightly buffed or finished to a soft, matte, velvety feel. It’s elastic, pleasant to the touch, and very strong.

It is one of the most demanding leathers to process, hence more expensive.

Nubuck breathes well and offers excellent thermoregulation, making it suitable for all-year wear.

We also use water-repellent nubuck - specially treated to resist moisture. This impregnation protects in damp weather while preserving the material’s softness and natural hand; it ages beautifully and the color gains depth. Our winter Grizzly and Yeti models come in several beautiful colors of water-repellent nubuck.

3. Suede - Velvety Texture & Lasting Softness

Suede comes from the inner split of the hide. Its surface is softer, more fibrous, plush, and warm to the touch than nubuck, with wider pores for increased breathability.

Suede shoes have a natural matte, velvet-like look that feels both luxurious and cozy—very much aligned with the barefoot ethos: natural movement, natural materials, natural feel.

At Zeazoo we offer both classic suede and water-repellent suede (treated to resist moisture), making it more suitable for daily wear, including in damper conditions. Husky and Fox 2.0 feature several suede colors.

Care tip: use a suede brush and impregnation spray; avoid creams or waxes whose oily texture mats the nap.

C. Leather by Tanning

Tanning is one of the most important steps in leather. processing It transforms the protein chains to meet durability, elasticity and long live.

1. Vegetable Tanned Leather - Natural & Safe

One of the most valued and sustainable leathers we use. For centuries, leather was tanned with plant-based tannins (oak, acacia, chestnut), which alter the protein chains to preserve vitality, elasticity, and softness.

No harsh chemicals - just plant tannins. It’s a slower, traditional process (can take weeks), yielding a fully natural, skin-friendly material, suitable even for sensitive skin and allergies.

Vegetable tanned leather has a unique structure and color - each piece is different, with small “imperfections” that give a lively, authentic look. Over time it darkens slightly and develops a distinct patina.

It’s kinder to nature - durable, long-lasting, and biodegradable - but more delicate to maintain because the open pores readily absorb environmental agents.

2. Chromium Tanned Leather (Chromium Tanning)

Chromium (wet-blue) tanning is a modern method, but at least 200 years old, favored for its speed and consistent results: strong, soft, and durable leather suitable for many applications.

After tanning and washing, the leather appears blue (hence wet-blue). Residual chromium - an allergen - must meet very low EU safety limits. Sensitive individuals may still experience irritation.

3. Chrome Free Tanning (Aldehyde Tanning)

Wet-white leathers (they come out pale/white). The process is longer and therefore more expensive than chromium tanning. The resulting leather is softer with surface that can be more easily scratched or affected by washing, but it is preferred for small children and people with chromium allergies.

We primarily use chrome-free linings and chrome-free nappa for slippers and children’s shoes, because they directly touch the feet.

D. Vegan Alternative - For a Conscious Choice

We understand that some people prefer not to use animal materials.

We therefore offer a vegan alternative made from high-quality microfiber - a light, durable, easy-care material that resembles natural leather but is synthetic, with some corn fibers in it. This way everyone can find barefoot shoes aligned with their values - without compromising comfort or style.

The vegan alternative is a man-made material with uniform properties across the entire material - consistent stretch, durability, and color, thus making it easier to work with, avoiding production surprises, and lowering costs with no material waste.

Choose what you feel and like best

No matter whether you choose full-grain leather, soft suede, or vegetable-tanned leather - every material we use is carefully selected, safe, and made in the EU.

Handcrafting and natural materials ensure that every Zeazoo shoe is unique - just like your feet.

Choose a model made from materials that respect nature and support natural movement.